Few cities make it easier to go local than Rome, with its trove of distinct quarters. Our author scouts out three neighborhoods, staying in lodgingsfrom luxe to basictypical of each. His favorite? Read on.
It's midnightthe church bell just rang. The moon is a day past full. I am eating gelato while sitting on the steps of the fountain in the middle of Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere in Rome. I'm between a drunk and a young couple kissing with gusto. Hundreds of other people are buzzing around me. I am deep into an experiment that is turning out to be a pretty good idea.
I've visited Rome before. I've stayed at high-end hotels, at family-run pensioni, and in private apartments, and in each instance I've gotten a different feeling for the city. But this time I've decided to combine all three types of lodging in one trip. I will start out living in opulence, ratchet down to living reasonably, and proceed to living cheaplyin three very distinct neighborhoods. I want to see how different locations and accommodations affect my experience. I've relieved myself of the obligation to see anything in particular; I'm here to discover the rhythms and quirks of each neighborhood, and maybe a few of its secrets.
